Emporio

REVIEW

July 8, 2010


CUISINE: Italian, Pizza
NEIGHBORHOOD: Nolita, Soho

 

231 Mott St. at Prince St.
(p) 212-966-123

You probably haven't heard of Emporio. It hasn't received much press, save for its un-hyped inclusion in New York Mag's Top 20 Pizzas of the Moment last June, but that doesn't mean it's not packing some serious heat. And thanks to the lack of buzz, you can expect to be seated right away, sans reservation — something to be cherished in this city.

 

Designed to look like a twenties-era Roman grocery – white tile, rustic wooden paneling and bags of pasta stacked high on shelves — Emporio has a relaxed, welcoming feel strengthened by affectionate Italian staff. CONT'D

 

 


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Posted in FOOD on July 8, 2010 9:26am by Jena Steinbach | 3 comments



REVISITING MY CLASSIC: Chicken Piccata

RECIPE

June 14, 2010


CUISINE: Italian

 

My earliest memories of Italian food revolve around The Chase, a Santa Barbara restaurant that has been around since, well, before I can remember.  It's the kind of spot that has white tablecloths and black-and-white photographs cover the walls.  Regulars talk to one another at the bar or settle into the red-leather booths.  Customers wave across the room at familiar faces.  During the holiday season, the place is a shrine to decorating: twinkle lights drip from every surface, light-up reindeer soar across the sky, pine garlands encircle the room. CONT'D

 

 

 

 

 


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Posted in FOOD on June 14, 2010 3:00pm by Rachel Hochhauser | 2 comments





Pulinos

REVIEW

May 26, 2010


CUISINE: Italian, Pizza
NEIGHBORHOOD: Lower East Side

photo: Eater.com

282 Bowery at Houston

(p) 212-226-2966

 

I'm not sure if it's fair to judge Pulino's on one pizza at midnight, but I'm going to do it anyway.  Background info: Pulino's is the newest establishment by downtown restaurateur Keith McNally. Working the kitchen is Nate Appleman, who moved from San Francisco just for the job. I actually ate at his former restaurant, A16, when I was in SF two summers ago and it was fantastic. I love McNally's other restaurants –Schillers, Minetta, Balthazar, to name a few — so I was confident this new one was going to impress me.  CONT'D

 

 


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Posted in FOOD on May 26, 2010 12:03pm by Jena Steinbach | 3 comments





Motorino

REVIEW

May 19, 2010


CUISINE: Italian, Pizza
NEIGHBORHOOD: East Village, Williamsburg

 

349 East 12th St. at 1st Ave.   or  319 Graham Ave. at Devoe St. 
(p) 212-777-2644/ (p) 718-599-8899                      

Williamsburg pizza fave crosses the river, parks around the corner from East Village gem, Luzzo's, and easily takes the win. Start off with the fire roasted mortadella — strip of intensely flavored pork sausage, halved cherry tomatoes, raw onions and fresh basil — presented like a salad. It's unbelievable, and it's just the beginning. Cooked in a wood-fired oven, Motorino's personal pizzas are the best I've had in the city.  The dough is soft and moist with black circles of burnt, ashy crust. Unlike Luzzo's, whose pies are sometimes rolled too thin and fall apart, the crust at Motorino manages to be both delicate and sturdy, easily surviving the distance between plate and mouth. CONT'D

 


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Posted in FOOD on May 19, 2010 10:35am by Jena Steinbach | 3 comments



italian ratatouille

RECIPE

April 19, 2010


CUISINE: French, Italian

 

 

You know how people name recipes "Not Your Mother's" whatever?  I've never really understood that.  It doesn't seem very intuitive to me —mothers are stereotypically good cooks.  Anyhow, this is my mother's ratatouille, and I can remember eating it as a kid, served over a pillowy bed of cous cous.  

 

I recently went home, and on my first night back, my sister and I made a mess of the kitchen recreating the dish.  Good news: in my family, whoever does the cooking, doesn't have to do the dishes.  (I'm well aware this is the only reason my sister helped me out.)

 

 

This is an Italian twist on the traditional French version — and made country style, with large chunky pieces of vegetables.  You can improvise a bit and throw in whatever you've got on hand.

 


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Posted in FOOD on April 19, 2010 10:00am by Rachel Hochhauser | 1 comment