(Photo taken from TONY)

212 Lafayette Street

photo: Hannah Whitaker for New York Magazine

Rated best deli of 2010 by New York Magazine (and a bazillion other food sources), Mile End Delicatessen is run by Noah Bernamoff, a Canadian- Brooklyn transplant with a penchant for seriously seasoned meats. Our friends over at Jewcy.com interviewed Noah, who dropped out of law school to stuff smoked brisket into mushy onion rolls. 

Interviewed By: Jason Diamond 

You dropped out of law school to open Mile End?  Is your mother worried?

Well, I'm technically still on a leave of absence.  I indeed left permanently or temporary to do this.  I wasn't very happy in law school, and this was something I really wanted to do for awhile, and I suppose I felt inspired at the time. It was a bold moment perhaps, and rather just feeling enslaved to the process that law school puts you, or fits you into, I decided to do something I really wanted to do. 

I have a lot of friends who are either in law school or have recently finished it, and I can't tell who seems more unhappy.

It's not rare that I speak to a lawyer that's been practicing for 20 or 30 years that they say I wish I did what you did.  Even if I do finish it's more to feel a sense of completion.  It's not my primary focus. 

What started your interest in smoked meat?  Obviously it's popular in Montreal, but was it something you've been doing your entire life, did you have to go back home and take a class or something, was the talent bestowed upon you in a dream? 

It was born out of a loss.  I moved [from Montreal], and when you lose something, you miss something.  I was yearning from it.  It's not even the same to buy some in Montreal and just bring it back down because it just loses it's entire character.  It's not warm, it's not sliced by hand.  It's the kind of thing I did because I wanted it for myself.

Prior to moving to Brooklyn, did you have any preconceived notions that the delicatessens were better than they actually are?

I don't think I had any opinions.  I just did it.  It's important to me, but it wasn't the do all, end all.  I wasn't born on a meat slicer.  My families not at all in the food business.  It's just something that's part of my Jewish-Montreal psyche.  It's that embedded with the culture I grew up with.  But the fact that I moved into an area and there was not a single deli that I'd ever come across is astonishing given that it's New York.  There are no delis left.  The ones that are, are based off being tourist traps...

The meat that comes out of Montreal is different that what their making at a Katz's or 2nd Ave. Deli...

Yeah, it's not a huge distinction, but it is a different thing.  The meat is butchered differently.  It's spiced differently, cured differently.  Like a place like Schwartz's, that has the most smoked meat in Montreal, for the reason that they are one of two delis that actually make their own meat.  It's also the vibe.  There's more to the final product.  It's about dedication in Montreal, there's an authenticity to things: the original way of doing things.  The bagels speak to that too.  That's one reason why I'm a big fan of Montreal bagels is yeh, their a totally different product, but there is a totally different philosophy to making bagels.  

Another thing I find interesting is that when the meat runs out, you're done for the day...

We usually go a little bit past when the meat runs out, but more or less.  During the week that's roughly around 4 o'clock, sometimes just a hair earlier, and then on the weekends, it's typically earlier.  But sometimes I'm able to sit an extra brisket or two for the weekend, but not every time.

It seemed like the last few years, Brooklyn has been undergoing something of a bacon trend.  Is Canadian smoked meat the next big thing?

I love bacon.  I'd be happy for the bacon trend to continue because I just have an affinity for all food.  I have a cultural love for Jewish food.  Kashrut is bogus anyway.

So now that you have your own smoked meat place in Brooklyn, do you feel more at home? 

Yes and no. I still miss the way I was able to live in Montreal, but since I've moved here, I've loved living in Brooklyn.  Could I imagine a place other than Brooklyn to do this?  Probably not.  I definitely feel at home. 

One last question, since you're a Canadian living in New York, and the NHL regular season is coming closer to an end: have you become a Rangers fan?

Hell no.  There's no way.  No fucking way.  I could be cool with the Knicks because I've never had a team of my own, but when it comes to hockey, there's one team that has my heart and that's the Montreal Canadians.  

A couple of weeks ago YAH was invited to go sampling in the Grand Central Market. Having grown up in Bedford, NY, Frankie's the only one in the gang who's familiar with Grand Central. Madeline and Rachel are from California, and when Seth and I want to visit the family in Philadelphia, we're stuck with Penn Station, the food options of which are limited to Famous Amos cookies at the news stand, or a full blown wings-and-fries dinner at TGI Fridays.  I knew that Grand Central had some decent grub, but I didn't realize the extent of their culinary prowess. Forget getting a train; let's get some lunch.

Below: A rundown of the day's edibles, plus a video of YAH talking to Murray's Cheese, interviewing Mr. Zaro of Zaro's Bread, and sampling $100 per lb. proscuitto.

Murray's Cheese: Friendly, red-capped staff and delectable cheeses.

Murray's Real Salami: More helpful hands, plus pastrami, salami, and $100 per lb.proscuitto. 

Zaro's Bread Basket: Killer multi-grain, challah, and whole-wheat breads. Owner enjoys the Black and White cookie, a New York favorite for over 75 years.    

Corrado Bread & Pastry: Low-fat scones, plump muffins and beautiful little tarts that taste nearly as good as they look. The perfect gift to bring to a dinner party.

Ceriello Fine Foods: Butcher shop selling Prime Aged Beef, juicy olives, dried pastas and prepared foods like chunky sausages and caprese salads.

Dishes at Home:  Prepared foods with an emphasis on high proteins and veggies. Go for the salmon cake and a side of something green.

Marina & the Diamonds

Monday 3/8

Washed Out @ Mercury Lounge

Tuesday 3/9

Oberhofer / Yes Giantess @ Le Poisson Rouge

Wednesday 3/10

Emanuel & the Fear @ Gramercy Theatre

Thursday 3/11

Free Energy @ Mercury Lounge

Friday 3/12

The Very Best / Theophilus London @ Museum of Natural History

Saturday 3/13

DJ Seth Kallen @ The Bell House (FREE!)

Sunday 3/14

Marina & the Diamonds @ The Bell House

My friend Kelly got into law school, and I wanted to congratulate her — with dessert.  I have a secret: I’ve never made soufflé before.   I had heard so many stories about fallen soufflés that they intimidated me, but Martha Stewart’s recipe made them seem easy.  Before I knew it, I was in my kitchen separating egg yolks.

Though my version didn’t turn out to be a picture-perfect replica of Martha’s, they still tasted sublime: custardy, but with a lemony sugar-bite.  The original recipe called for regular lemons, but I substituted with Meyer’s because they’re in season and deliciously sweet, i.e. perfect for a celebratory dessert.

Meyer Lemon Soufflés

Makes 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more, room temperature, for dishes

½ cup granulated sugar, plus more for dishes (CONT'D)

8 large egg yolks plus 10 large egg whites, room temperature 

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh Meyer lemon juice (from 2 Meyer lemons), plus 2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest

1 cup whole milk

Garnish: confectioner’s sugar

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Butter six 12-ounce soufflé dishes (brushing the sides in upward strokes), and then dust with granulated sugar.  Whisk together yolks, flour, zest and 2 tablespoons granulated sugar.

2. Bring milk to a boil in a small saucepan.  Slowly pour milk into yolk mixture, whisking constantly to prevent yolks from cooking.  Return mixture to pan, and whisk until thick like pudding, about 2 minutes.  Strain through a sieve and whisk in butter with lemon juice.

3. Beat whites until foamy.  Gradually add remaining ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, and beat until stiff peaks form.  Stir a third of whites into the yolk mixture.  Gently fold in the remaining whites using a rubber spatula (make sure everything is thoroughly mixed.)

4. Fill each soufflé dish to the top, and smooth.  Run your thumb around the edges to remove batter from rims.

5. Bake on a rimmed baking sheet until soufflés rise and are golden, about 16 minutes.  Dust with confectioners’ sugar, and serve immediately, before soufflés lose their height.

Note: Soufflés can be prepared through step four and refrigerated for up to three hours.

P.S. Apologies for ignoring Pier 92!  

Your map.

The listings that follow go North to South, West to East.  

Pipilotti Rist’s glowing light box (it's a film still!)

at Hauser & Wirth

Raquib Shaw at White Cube

(Ignore everything else... especially the overrated Hirst that went for 4.6mil)

Anna Kleberg at Andrehn-Schiptjenko

Philip Lorca diCorcia at Zwirner

A whole booth dedicated to him!

Almost everything at Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin:

Anthony James at Nicholas Robinson Gallery

(entranced viewer, not included)

Joachim Schonfeldt at Goodman

And while you are on your treasure hunt...

How many Robert Indiana remakes can you find?

Here’s a start.

Marshmallow Pizza!

Do you have kids? Do you miss the days when you could hang at the Mercury Lounge until 2am watching your favorite new band from Portland?  Well, you may not be able to stay out late anymore, but you can still see your favorite indie rock bands  — and the kids can come too!  Kidrockers, a monthly event that takes place in NYC, LA, and now in Philadelphia, offers live day shows on Sundays for both kids and parents.  The success of the series has inspired a Kid Rockers pizza from Two Boots that they now serve after every show at Two Boots on Avenue A What makes this pizza so kid friendly?  Its covered in a rim of MARSHMALLOWS. Amazing. 

(CON'T)

Savoir Adore w/ an army of kids, @ The Living Room

Check out the next NYC Kid Rockers show, March 7th at the Living Room with Beach Fossils and Bottle Up & Go!

Jeff Gurwin for TONY

522 Hudson St at 10th St.

(p) 212-807-7357

Don't be fooled by the name; the menu is more New American than it is French. Hanging out on Hudson Street in what used to be Le Gamin, the New French is small and poorly advertised, so don't miss it!  With plain wooden tables and a chalkboard menu the atmosphere is more laid back than the food, which is detailed, thoughtful, and damn good. From start to finish, the meal exceeded my expectations. If I lived in the neighborhood, The New French would easily become a go-to dinner spot. CONT'D

Start off with the pizza appetizer special. It changes daily; on our visit it was some sort of eggplant, smoked mozzarella number and it was phenomenal. Made on Sullivan Street Pizza Bianco it's relatively light, as far as pizzas go, and easy to share.  Our table sampled a variety of entrees and all were delicious: bountiful plates of roast chicken, hanger steak and roasted halibut with scrumptious vegetables on the side.  The roast chicken, with bluefoot chanterelles, was a unanimous favorite, while the grilled hanger steak ranked as a close second. I regret not trying either the pulled pork on brioche or the brisket on ciabatta sandwiches, which not only sound awesome but cost less than $13.  Score! 

For brunch, the French influence kicks in, showing off some sweet and savory crepes.  I'm coming back for the butter sugar and lemon. Wouldn't you?  

Sometimes simple is better.  Last week, when the snow flakes the size of butterflies were falling from the sky, I trudged home through the grey slush working up a ravenous appetite as I went along. So many winter vegetables require a long time in the oven, but after a long, cold, day, I wanted to eat something quickly, and didn't have the patience to purchase, cut, de-seed and roast a squash.  This is one of those dishes you can make by only buying the main ingredient — I tend to keep everything else on hand.

Garlicky Swiss Chard with Stems

Note: I used regular red-stemmed Swiss chard, but those looking for a color-pop could opt for the rainbow variety.

1 Bunch of Swiss Chard 

3 Cloves of Garlic, minced

1 Tablespoon Butter

1 Small Onion, Diced

1 Teaspoon Sea Salt dot 

1 Teaspoon Black Pepper

¼ cup pine nuts

Rinse and dry Swiss chard. CONT'D

Separate the chard stems from the leaf and slice into  ½ inch pieces.  Set the leaf aside.

Sauté garlic in butter until fragrant, about 1-2 minutes.  Stir in salt, pepper, onion and chard stems and turn heat to low.  Cook until onions are translucent and gold and stems are soft, about 15 minutes.  The garlic should turn crispy.

Meanwhile, cute the chard leaves into strips.  After onion is golden, add the leaves and cover the sauté pan, stirring occasionally, until leaves have wilted.  Stir and plate, sprinkling the top with pine nuts.

Joe Pug

Monday 3/1

Mon Khmer / Your Nature @ Brooklyn Bowl

Tuesday 3/2

Little Boots @ Highline Ballroom

Rogue Wave / Avi Buffalo @ Music Hall of Williamsburg

Thursday 3/4

Jukebox the Ghost / Tally Hall @ Bowery Ballroom

Man Man / Born Ruffians @ NYU

Friday 3/5

Justin Townes Earle / Joe Pug / Annie & the Beekeepers @ Bowery Ballroom