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CUISINE: Italian
NEIGHBORHOOD: Soho
Michael White restaurant sans white table cloth and not in Midtown? Major score for the downtown set. Or is it?
Osteria is in a great location (we love Nolita) and the food is pretty good (again, Michael White). But it's for these two reasons that the restaurant is both perpetually crowded and a bit overpriced. Let's dive deeper.
Osteria Morini takes reservations, but leaves a few tables in the front of the restaurant open for walk-ins. The bar is here, and that's nice, but as these tables are literally inches from the reservation desk and front door, it's a punishing placement during winter months. (Think frequent gusts of bitter wind.) In contrast to the walk-in seating, the majority of the tables are located in the back of the restaurant which is overflowing with soft Christmas lights and room to move, an indisputable upgrade. Key finding: According to Osteria Morini, spontaneity is a crime worth punishing.
As you can tell, I was seated in the front. Luckily I was wearing a thick sweater that day, and my eagerness to try the food mitigated my geographical issues. The menu has plenty of awesome sounding plates, from fried Italian street foods to macaroni and pork sausage, but when I decided to go the healthy route, the options sizzled down considerably. I opted for the roasted baby chicken because A) I love roasted chicken and B) it came with brussels sprouts and caramelized onions which is my new favorite side dish. Seth, on the other hand, went in the exact opposite direction with the fried veal cutlet wrapped in proscuitto and parmigiano, coated with truffled cream, and served alongside buttered spinach.
We started the meal by splitting the simple insalata mista which was light, fresh, and well-dressed. Next up was the Stracci, pasta rags with braised wild mushrooms and rosemary oil. It was good. It was also $19. Moving on, my chicken was fantastic, if a tad salty. Seth's entree made me sick to look at, but he seemed to enjoy it until about half when through when he said, "I don't know about this anymore." I took my leftovers home; Seth's remained.
For dessert we split the poached pear tartlet. It was one of those really pretty, cold, creations you stare at in bakery windows. Usually these don't taste half as good as they look. This one did.
All in all, I enjoyed myself. (Perhaps I should add here that I was drinking a lot of wine and Seth paid.) Sam Sifton, on the hand, thinks Mr. White is spreading himself too thin with Morini. We can't comply, as this is our first venture into the White Empire, but if true, it's unfortunate that his more casual, downtown restaurant should be the least successful.
*photo:NYTimes, illuminated by ME
Posted in FOOD on December 22, 2010 3:23pm by Jena Steinbach | 72 comments
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We are young (early 20's) and hungry (for knowledge! music! art! food!) friends living on (or in areas which border) Manhattan. We moved to the city seeking higher education, and an alternative to frat parties and gin buckets. We prefer a bottle of Chianti to a keg, lunches at City Bakery to a dining hall, Joe's to Starbucks, Frankie's Amatriciana to Batali's. Our uniting factor is our love for food. For detailed, personal information, keep reading.
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I thought Osteria Morini was excellent… I went there for lunch recently, and found their pastas simply remarkable. I had a plate of tagliatelle in ragu all’antica that nearly brought me to tears. There is a great porchetta salad starter, and their fish special (grilled Spanish Mackerel) was similarly great. And like you, we ordered the chicken, and I loved it. Such an overlooked meat these days, shunned in favor of more fashionable cuts. I just wrote my review here: http://restaurantbrat.com/2011/01/30/osteria-morini/