The Bedford

REVIEW

December 7, 2010


CUISINE: American (New)
NEIGHBORHOOD: Williamsburg

 

110 Bedford St. between 11th and 12th

(p) 718-301-1002

 

The Bedford, located in the old Sound Fix HQ, is throwing its hat in the ring to contend with Williamsburg’s ‘new American’ heavy hitters, such as Marlow & Sons and Rye. Guess what? Their ingredients are local, their would-be patrons are stylish in that nostalgia-for-another-era fashion, and their interior is oaky and candlelit. What’s wrong with hopping on a bandwagon if said bandwagon is proving to be a hot ticket? You shouldn’t need one more reason to leave Manhattan for better shores, says this Brooklyn loyalist. CONT'D

 

While the menu is as sparse as the dinner crowd at this point, there are some true highlights. Meaty ones at that. The pork shank and lamb ribs, both, are so tender they barely stay on the bone. Added points to the North Carolina vinegar-based sauce, which pays homage to the Chef Blake Joyal’s hometown origins. Goat cheese on a burger, unsurprisingly, a crowd pleaser.

 

The chef is just a little heavy-handed it seems. We found the black kale Caesar salad a bit too over-dressed. Like Cher, always. And the roasted half-chicken, while being quite the looker of a dish, was salty. Deer lick salty.

 

But the cocktails, oh my the cocktails, were a ginger divinity. Ginger beer + liquor = maybe I should be a Southerner. Our faves: the Kicking Mule, a lime juice, vodka, ginger beer concoction, and the Bedford Sour, which is essentially an Old Fashioned plus egg whites.

 

If not for a few kinks yet to be worked out, The Bedford is poised to blossom into a local hotspot. And less we forget, there is a rear lounge and bar perfect for a DJ’d dance night. So dance on, Williamsburgers, dance like it’s 1935 in a men’s smoking lounge and the Second World War has yet to come.

 


Posted in FOOD on December 7, 2010 8:28am by Lyle | 29 comments



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