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CUISINE: Italian, Pizza
NEIGHBORHOOD: Lower East Side
photo: Eater.com
282 Bowery at Houston
(p) 212-226-2966
I'm not sure if it's fair to judge Pulino's on one pizza at midnight, but I'm going to do it anyway. Background info: Pulino's is the newest establishment by downtown restaurateur Keith McNally. Working the kitchen is Nate Appleman, who moved from San Francisco just for the job. I actually ate at his former restaurant, A16, when I was in SF two summers ago and it was fantastic. I love McNally's other restaurants –Schillers, Minetta, Balthazar, to name a few — so I was confident this new one was going to impress me. CONT'D
Turns out, I'm going to have to agree with Adam Platt, whose harsh review of Pulino's earned him a raging letter from McNally himself. (Hey Keith, if you're reading, my email address is Jena@theyoungandhungry.com.) After a movie on Saturday night, I stopped by Pulino's and was happy to find that, despite a crowd outside, there were several tables available. Everyone's talking about how the place looks identical to Schillers, but I couldn't believe it when I saw it— the same checkered floors, walls lined with liquor bottles, magazine rack. The wine is even organized in a similar fashion, copying Schiller's "cheap, decent, good" system with a "light, medium, full." Talk about a lack of creativity.
Since it was late and I wasn't too hungry, I ordered simply: carafe of "full" wine and a pepperoni pizza. The pizza wasn't necessarily bad, but it reminded me of pizza that I make at home — as much as I try, I can't get the crust to taste like it does at a good restaurant; it's dry and flat, like matzoh, without much flavor on its own. So too was the crust at Pulinos. As for the sauce, I'd take mine over Pulino's, which got dark and tomato pastey near the crust. Lastly, it's hard not to like pepperoni, but Pulino's was thin and dry, just nothing special.
It's true that I bypassed entire sections of the menu — appetizers, salads, desserts — but one would think pizza should be the main draw here, right? Though it might seem harsh, I'm going to allow my mediocre pepperoni pizza to speak for the entire restaurant. And it's saying: Go to Motorino.
Posted in FOOD on May 26, 2010 12:03pm by Jena Steinbach | 91 comments
Comments
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Yes, I sure do have coupons.# 8382 = Oven Baked Sandwich for $ 4.99# 8385 = 2 Sandwiches and 1 Large 1-topping Pizza for $ 19.99PNK = Triple Topper Pizza $ 9.99 meiudm $ 11.99 Large $ 13.99 x-large.40% off when you buy Lunch between 11 AM and 4 PM. Use code L40. (May not be available at all locations).M2C is the Medium Combo Meal for $ 11.99: 12 pizza with up to 2-toppings and Breadsticks (or Cinna Stix). For a Large, use code L2C for $ 13.99.There are tons of coupons available. It would help to know what you plan to order.
For those who are blathering about great food at Patrizio's, I'd coucnr with the original poster that their pasta, sauce, bread, and pretty much everything else you'd expect from an Italian restaurant are sub-par to awful. Haven't tried the pizza but may go back one more time just to check it out. "Favorite" restaurants shouldn't be chosen based on how new, hip, and cool they may be...or that you "discovered" them. It is the food that makes a good restaurant. And maybe a little service.
- I've been planning on mankig these for the game ever since you posted them! However, I just realized that all I have is all-purpose flour. I read on Brown Eyed Baker that this flour will make the crust a little less crisp. Do you think this will matter in this recipe? Thanks Annie for all of your inspirational recipes, love your site!February 7, 2010 2:59 am[]Annie Reply:February 7th, 2010 at 4:24 amHi Erica,I always use whatever flour is called for in dough recipes, because it really does make a difference in the texture. Bread flour has more protein and therefore higher gluten content than all-purpose, which leads to a chewier dough. In the case of the pizza bites, it won't necessarily affect the crispness because these really aren't crisp, but to get that nice chewy texture of good pizza dough, I think bread flour is best. I am sure you can find substitution ratios on the internet if you still want to use AP. Good luck![]
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I had three different pizza's and was not impressed either. The flavors just didnt pop.