Brunch at Applewood

REVIEW

May 18, 2010


CUISINE: American (New)
NEIGHBORHOOD: Park Slope


501 11st St Between 7th and 8th Ave
(p) 718-788-1014

This past sunday, Seth and I rode our bikes to Park Slope for brunch at Applewood. (It's much easier for me to exercise when food is my incentive.)  Nearly hidden on the ground floor of a brownstone, Applewood welcomes its guests with a sweet outdoor patio bordered with leafy trees and a few lucky tables.  CONT'D

 



The inside is homey, too. Black and white photos of cows contrast with the bright yellow walls. There's also exposed brick and a red fireplace in the room's center. (Note to self: return in winter months.)  A charming porcelain sink, located outside of two private bathrooms, is fully stocked with Kheils lotions and toothpaste as if it were a bed and breakfast upstate.

And the food? Like my middle school report card, the food revealed elements of excellence (reading, handwriting, math) but also areas needing improvement (not talking to friends during science class).  The menu includes several brunch pre-requisites — sour milk french toast and pancakes, three eggs, granola — but catches attention with its more unusual options: braised pork belly omelette, veal tongue and eggs.   I'm not one for offal first thing in the morning, so you'll have to forgive me for playing things a little safe.   

I opted for the spring vegetable omelette with grits and a biscuit.  The omelette, which came with pickled red chard, onions and fava beans, was flavorful with a nice crunch.  The grits were creamy and well-seasoned, but the biscuit was exactly what you don't want: dry and flavorless. After much debate, Seth sprung for the sour milk french toast.  The flavor of this was A plus, but texturally it failed. It just wasn't sufficiently soggy; the middle was okay, but as you got closer to the crust it was as dry as day-old bread (which it most likely was).  On a positive note, we ordered a side of Applewood smoked bacon which was delicious — thick and chewy, like a meaty jerky.   

 

             

Aside from the food, Applewood deserves some criticism for their service. Tucked into a corner table underneath a slanting wall, Seth and I felt invisible, and indeed that was how we were perceived. I had to raise my hand to get our server's attention — twice.

Despite all this, Applewood's good qualities override the bad ones, and I would consider this restaurant worth it. I'm also curious to try their dinner menu, which features local entrees like Long Island Bluefish and a Pennsylvania lamb loin.

 


Posted in FOOD on May 18, 2010 2:16pm by Jena Steinbach | 14 comments



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