(P.) (212) 925-9322

Café Select is one of those Nolita restaurants where the clientele is trendy and the food tastes great.  With a full beverage selection (ranging from excellent coffee to a lauded wine list) and hours that start early in the morning and often extend late into the night (their crowded back room is worth checking out), just about everyone can find something to like. CONT'D

The flavors of the food reflect the restaurant’s Swiss heritage, but aren’t too overpowering.  In fact, despite the cuisine’s traditionally heavy leanings, it’s entirely possible to have a light meal here — perhaps this is what happens when you open a place in a neighborhood that is traditionally inhabited by models.

However, those less interested in a model-like physique will find plenty to indulge in.  My favorite item is their rösti, which I would describe as a hash-brown pie —crispy and nearly burnt on the outside, the potatoes are cooked to a creamy texture on the inside.  I’ve been known to order it as an entrée, though it comes as a side.  The schnitzel can be made with veal or chicken, and is prepared traditionally (thinly pounded and breaded so that it’s crispy on the outside).  Best of all, it doesn’t feel greasy, as the chef seems to understand that a schnitzel can be enjoyed with a light salad instead of potatoes.   Spätzli, an egg noodle, is served with a few of the entrees.  On a recent night, it arrived hot from the kitchen, pea-green in color, and with a satisfying crunch I wasn’t expecting from a noodle.  End your meal with the decadently sweet Toblerone mousse, a play on the Swiss candy that is the perfect sugary kiss to end an evening.