Nyonya

REVIEW

December 11, 2009


CUISINE: Malaysian
NEIGHBORHOOD: Little Italy, Lower East Side

photo: Nymag.com

 

199 Grand St. Between Mott and Mulberry St

(p) 212-334-3669

 

It is difficult to find a comfort meal in New York City.  I don’t mean comfort food, as there is plenty of truffled mac n’cheese to go around; I mean that amid a plethora of restaurants with model hostesses and $26 entrees, eating out can feel like a production.   One has to be on top of things. This is not so at Nyonya, Little Italy’s answer to Malaysian food, which boasts authentic family recipes, and a less-than-intimidating culinary experience. CONT'D

 

Though there are few frills at this restaurant, patrons will find a piping-hot pot of tea at their tables.  Menus are passed out efficiently and quickly, as time is needed to explore the extensive laminated pages.  Attempt to pace your order, as the kitchen is not adept at timing your meal — however these errors should be overlooked for when the food does arrive, it will be hot, authentic and flavorful.  The Nyonya Poh Piah — a Malaysian steamed spring roll, stuffed with jicima, egg and minced shrimp — is sliced and served with chopsticks to be devoured like sushi. The traditional Roti Canai, a flat pancake of sorts that Nyonya used to display in the windows of their original location, is served with a curry chicken dipping sauce that is so delicious, I ended up pouring it on top of the rest of my meal.  And it should come as no surprise that the Shrimp Puffs are scrumptious: the minced seafood is deep-fried and wrapped in bacon. 

 

For the cholesterol-minded, Nyonya also offers a variety of steamed fish in various sauces.  I opted for tilapia in ginger-soy-scallion.  How often we forget that our food comes from an actual animal: I was taken aback when an entire fish, eyes milked over from the steam, arrived on a platter.  Though the presentation was beautiful, I am not accustomed to deboning a fish, and a friendly waiter helped me so that I could access the moist, tender meat.  Nyonya’s most popular dish, the Champion Spareribs, is easy to share: the deep-fried pieces are cut up for easy taking.  The food at Nyonya can and should be eaten family-style: there are too many flavors to keep to oneself, and ultimately, that’s just how home-cooking should be enjoyed.

 


Posted in FOOD on December 11, 2009 5:32pm by Rachel Hochhauser | 8 comments



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