The Harrison

REVIEW

November 10, 2009


CUISINE: American (Traditional)
NEIGHBORHOOD: Tribeca

photo: Eater.com

 

355 Greenwich at Harrison St.

(p) 212-274-9310

 

The Harrison is an okay place to take stubborn parents or grandparents if they like to spend some money for safe and conservative American plates. It is not, however, an ideal place to go for those with young and adventurous pallets.  

 

The restaurant is pretty, but a little stiff. Faux-rustic light fixtures and handsome upholstered leather booths feel like a Restoration Hardware showroom.  Dad music —Elton John, The Beatles, Simon and Garfunkel — jives perfectly with the gray-haired tables.  The menu is everything Pop-Pop looks for on his Caribbean cruise. CONT'D

 

Straightforward appetizers, like roasted sardines and crispy shrimp cake — both deep-fried and sprinkled generously with salt — are as kid-friendly as Chicken McNuggets.  The older set will be further impressed by the portion size; you're absolutely getting a bang for your buck. Entrees stick to the American family dinner favorites: meats, fish, and chicken served with the usual accompaniments like baby carrots and potato puree.  Low notes included an overcooked pork chop and undercooked fennel tasting of dishwasher detergent. Of the entrees, the chicken with roasted lemon and garlic was the best; underneath a crispy, golden skin, the meat was tender and juicy.  

 

Since its opening in 2001, the Harrison has gone through three different executive chefs (Amanda Freitag is currently at bat), but the duck fat french fries have remained. I have no idea why. The dark brown fries, which taste like they were made in old oil, resemble a pizza parlor attempt at best.  I prefer Five Guys.

 

I hate to continue with the old-folk comparisons, but it's too spot on in this case. Our reservation was for 9:30 and by 11 we were the only people in the restaurant, and they let us know it. Elton John was turned off before we got our desserts, as were the kitchen lights. For someone who doesn't often dine at white tablecloth establishments, I'd rather go to Eleven Madison Park or Alto. 

 


Posted in FOOD on November 10, 2009 12:10pm by Jena Steinbach | 19 comments



Comments

maneater10:03am | February 5, 2010

I tend to agree with most of your reviews around the city, but, this one I have to respectfully disagree on. I've been twice now and everytime the tables are packed, the crowd is young, and most importantly the food is IMPRESSIONABLE. They respect the time of your reservations and though a 'white tablecloth' establishment, the entrees are primarily in the mid-twenties and relatively affordable. Service is spot on and there's table "breathing room". In summer, I've had an excellent soft-shelled crab. And the standard skate dish on the menu will not disappoint. The only item that left me wanting more were their desserts... Harrison is a staple and they deliver everytime.

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