Commerce

REVIEW

October 27, 2009


CUISINE: American (New), Brunch
NEIGHBORHOOD: West Village

photo: Eater.com

50 Commerce at Barrow St

(p) 212-524-2301

 

It is rare to find a Sunday brunch not overtaken by the masses, or a dining room without the cacophony of hungover hordes.  Cut to Commerce, nestled away in a (literal) corner of tree-lined West Village heaven and you'll search no more.  The calm of the restaurant dining room is reflected in the somber interior decor choices: dark grainy woods, chocolate leather, subdued murals done in muted earth tones.  The old-school NYC vibe comes with an appropriate cocktail menu, complete with an orange bloody mary. CONT'D

 

Though the menu might reflect the multinational-ness of Manhattan, it is not a "New York" menu; it draws inspiration from disparate sources, ranging, for example, from an "Israeli Working Man's Breakfast" to "Spaghetti Carbonara."  However, after tasting the cinnamon rolls, I found myself overlooking any menu bipolarity; the moist appetizers arrived steaming hot, delightfully doused in sticky cinnamon sauce.  The Shakshuka — an Italian dish served in a cast-iron skillet — consisted of eggs, melted peppers, onions and tomatoes.  The Biscuits & Sausage Gravy was lighter than expected, the fluffy biscuits plated with a sunny-side up egg. Order wisely; the drinks didn't arrive until we were nearly finished with our meal.

 


Posted in FOOD on October 27, 2009 8:59am by Rachel Hochhauser | 13 comments



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