The Little Owl

REVIEW

July 29, 2009


CUISINE: American (New)
NEIGHBORHOOD: West Village

 

90 Bedford St at Grove St

(p) 212-741-4695

 

Joey Campanaro's simple, New American menu executes clean food with bold flavors. For lunch, a sizable and expertly seasoned filet of arctic char comes with cauliflower and barbecued red onions, two delicious and guilt-free sides.  The chicken breast with brussels sprouts, another fine choice, is moist and juicy, thanks to a lemon sherry and dijon sauce. Of course, if you are looking for more standard lunch fare, the gourmet burger blends brisket and short ribs. As for dinner appetizers, the risotto du jour is a nice start, but don't get too full. Lighter options include artichoke with hearts of palm and the famed gravy meatball sliders. For entrees, generously sized proteins--including a whole fish, halibut, pork chop, and NY steak-- are served with a variety of tasty accompaniments. The chive mashed potatoes and parmesan butter beans are among my favorites. If you want to splurge for a side dish, the spiced fries aioli are rumored to be ethereal. 

 

Cornered on a quiet, tree lined street in the West Village, the space is tiny and tastefully decorated. A wall of windows brightens the only room, no doubt enticing the hoards of unreserved hopefuls who check in to see if "maybe they can seat us by the bar?" Dark wood tables, white walls, and an antique gold ceiling parallel the food's style: sophisticated yet understated. End your meal with a piece of the warm chocolate cake-- confirming you food como-- and wake up the next morning to book next month's visit.   

 


Posted in FOOD on July 29, 2009 11:31am by Jena Steinbach | 14 comments



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