Interview with Jill Schulster of JoeDoe

INTERVIEW

July 16, 2009


 

Frank Bruni’s recent takedown of Spice Market criticized Jean-Georges Vongerichten for spreading himself too thin across his international empire.  Chef Joe Dobias of JoeDoe does the opposite, working from a tiny kitchen that overlooks every table in his restaurant, and micromanaging through Twitter and personal responses to blog posts and Yelp reviews. In the interest of full disclosure, The Young and Hungry have a longstanding romance with Joe and his wife Jill Schulster, the duo behind the restaurant; they served their Veev-Cured Scallops at our launch party, and we rated the joint as “worth it,” back in May...  

 

We like JoeDoe for a number of reasons: the chef who designed the menu also cooked our food, and because we know the owners personally hand-stripped and sanded the restaurant's seats.  We know they anxiously watch our faces as we take our first bites and we enjoy ourselves because they so badly want us to.  Plus, we like the food.  The entire experience is as comfortable and deliciously flawed as a meal at a friend’s house — if your friend was an excellent chef, and his wife plied you with crazy cocktails.  We sat down to speak with Jill about her role behind the bar and her relationship with the chef:

 

How is the restaurant different from other restaurants producing food of the same caliber?


At JoeDoe, we like to say we serve sophisticated food in an unpretentious atmosphere.  Joe is very passionate about his food and it’s definitely reflected in his dishes.  His style of cooking is very bold and whimsical and he really appreciates seasonal ingredients.  Joe and I would like every guest to feel like they are dining in our home.  From our personal family photos on the wall to the restored antiques — we slaved away preserving! — we want you to relax and enjoy the experience. 

 

Do you find yourselves doing unusual things in the restaurant, since you are so “hands on” about operations?

 

Since Joe and I practically live in our restaurant, I sometimes find that a lot of my clothes and makeup end up crowding the office.  Other than that, Joe and I have a professional relationship at work and with our staff.   Sometimes I do play the Jewish mother in the restaurant and forget that most of my employees are older than me….and can take care of themselves!

 

What are the biggest challenges facing the restaurant right now?


Right now, the biggest challenge is promoting what we actually do here.  I feel like New Yorkers don’t really know what goes on at the JoeDoe.  We serve ‘Aggressive American’ cuisine, the menu changes often with beautifully farmed seasonal products, we use small batch artisanal spirits and beers, we mix them too (prepared beers).  Also, that Joe and I are very passionate about what we do.  I don’t think it will take any guest very long to see that when they come to our restaurant.  

 

How has opening a restaurant affected your other eating and dining experiences?

 

Firstly, we don’t get to go out to dinner very often.  We work seven days practically, and when we do take a day off we end up sleeping and ordering delivery.  Sometimes we get invited to other friends restaurants and it’s such a treat.  We have to make a conscious effort not to over-analyze everything in other people’s restaurants.  We talk about the entire experience and what we like and try to guess what things cost.  It’s pretty ridiculous. 

 

JoeDoe has been continually linked to Prune.  Are you fans of their food?

 

We respect Prune and Gabrielle Hamilton very much.  It is definitely one of the reasons we took our space on 1st street!  Proximity is very important in this industry and we are honored to be across the street from an established business and well-known chef. 

 

What are some of your favorite spots to eat in NYC? What places do you want to try next?

 

Joe and I are late night eaters.  We live in the West Village and we love to go to Daddy O’s. We are simple.  We like to go and have a great burger and a beer and sit at the bar. Another place we like is Zucco (Le French Diner) on Orchard Street.  Casual French bistro with like 8 seats.   As for restaurants, we have done our own ‘research’ and we love to eat out.  There are so many restaurants we would love to try but cant because we work so much.  High on our list right now are James in Brooklyn, Txikito, and Dirt Candy. 

 

How did you and Joe meet?

 

Joe was working as the chef of a restaurant on Sullivan Street in the West Village and lived directly above it.  I coincidently lived on Thompson Street, directly on the other side of his apartment.  I was working as a bartender on Bleecker and was looking for a job as a waitress. I found one through Craigslist and it was on Sullivan at the same place Joe worked.  My first day of work was Joe’s last day as the Executive Chef there, but he still lived above the restaurant and I would wave at him when he brought down his empty Arturo’s pizza boxes.  One day before going into his apartment he came in and gave me his phone number.   That was four years ago. 

 

When did you first become interested in food?

 

Not until I met Joe!   I am a ballet dancer by profession and had always worked in the restaurant business for money to supplement my income.  I met Joe, fell in love with him, fell in love with food and the business and took a job as the Manager of Crispo restaurant on 14th street.  Frank Crispo taught me so much about the restaurant industry and how to run a 150-seat restaurant. I realized that I was so in love with Joe that I would do anything to help him have his own place.   That is where JoeDoe was born.  I think I pushed him into it! Joe has made me so passionate about this business its unbelievable and we really love to dine out and anything food, spirits, beer related!  We plan to be in the city a very long time and have many other projects and restaurants other than JoeDoe. 

 

How did you start doing the cocktails for the bar?

 

When we opened JoeDoe we couldn’t really afford to order a lot of wine and we didn’t have the storage capacity or the proper tempered facility.  Thus, Joe and I came up with the idea to do an untraditional bar.  One with artisanal spirits and beers, and a rotating (manageable) wine list.  Joe helped me hand pick everything that we use and soon I started to experiment.  Joe and I don’t prefer overtly sweet cocktails.  All my cocktails tend to be acidic, savory, and well balanced.  I also use seasonal and nontraditional ingredients like spice and smoked salt. 

 

What have you been experimenting with lately? Will you share a recipe with us?

 

I’m currently working on some new summer drinks.  A really interesting one is called the ‘Bombay’ Screwdriver…..LIV Vodka, tumeric, fresh lime, saffron-rock sugar.  I’m still perfecting the recipe, so everyone is going to have to come to JoeDoe to try it! 

 


Posted in FOOD on July 16, 2009 3:43pm by Rachel Hochhauser | 1 comment



Comments

nick3:06pm | July 16, 2009

That smokey joe drink at the YAH party was so good.


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