Co. (COMPANY)

REVIEW

February 12, 2009


CUISINE: Italian, Pizza
NEIGHBORHOOD: Chelsea

 

 

230 9th Avenue at 24th street

(p) 212-243-1105

 

Gourmet pizza can be as confusing a concept as boxed wine, but Jim Lahey pulls it off effortlessly at Company.  Touting long family-style tables and a warm modern decor, Company attracts a friendly and verbose Chelsea crowd like a flamboyant gastropub.  The menu is simple: pizza and it's derivatives.  The toasts are scrumptious as are the salads, although the small size of these starters warrant ordering a bunch or springing for the Chef's selection of meats and cheeses, which is an excellently crafted plate...

 

The pizzas are gorgeous.  Truly beautiful... in fact I may be attracted to them in a sexual way. Artisinal and oblong, Company makes seven pies with a rotating eighth.  The Flambe alone is motivation to return; gooey parmesan and buffalo mozzarella with bits of salty bacon and caramelized onions to boot.  The Ham and Cheese is also noteworthy.  This pie is topped with paper-thin prosciutto, pecorino, gruyere, buffalo mozzarella and caraway seed, amalgamating with the charred dough to make this quite a little sophisticated pie.

 

All in all, Company is certainly showing promise.  Although a check crowded with starters might be on the steeper side of a pizza-centric meal, the creativity and high-caliber ingredients of the pies are worth your complete attention.  Besides, the bar menu could be a tad more interesting and the starters are pricey for their size.  No matter, Company makes a killer pizza.  Paired with a draft beer and some great music (Strawberry Fields and Puff the Magic Dragon in one sitting!!), Company is worth a regular visit.

 


Posted in FOOD on February 12, 2009 12:00am by Adam Samuels | 20 comments



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